Mt Martha Vet ClinicPregnancy & Whelping in Dogs

It is a lot easier to plan for the whelping when you are sure your bitch is pregnant. Pregnancy can be confirmed in a number of different ways.

• Palpating the abdomen by a veterinarian is possible from 24 days after mating, but it is not 100% reliable or accurate.
• An ultrasound can confirm pregnancy from 3-4 weeks after mating, but does not count pups.
• An X-ray can confirm pregnancy in the last 2-3 weeks of pregnancy and count most puppies.

Pregnant bitches do require some special care and attention.

• Feed puppy food throughout pregnancy and while she is nursing the puppies (this provides extra nutrients and calcium for the puppies to develop, and for her to produce milk to feed the pups)
• Feed her enough to keep her in ideal body condition. Whelping can be very hard, or
  impossible without help, if the bitch is overweight. Feeding and caring for a litter of puppies requires a lot of energy, so you don’t want her to be too thin either. Feed more frequently in late pregnancy.
• Ensure she has been fully vaccinated before she is mated, as most vaccines are unsafe during pregnancy (check with your veterinarian)
• Give her a broad-spectrum intestinal all-wormer such as Drontal or Milpro at mating, and 1 week before birth.
• Maintain her usual exercise to start with, but gradually reduce the length of walks as the pregnancy progresses

It is important to have somewhere prepared for the bitch to have the pups, and for the pups to be cared for. Often, a large box or crate is selected.

• Have the area ready 1-2 weeks before birth to get her used to it.
• It should be in a warm and quiet place (not near the washing machine!), and away from a lot of human activity.
• The box keeps pups confined (can’t escape), but the mother can get out easily.
• Have a bench in the box that the pups can get under (so they are not rolled on by the bitch)
• The room temperature should be kept at around 27-28 degrees. (Orphan pups need much warmer temperatures for the first 3-4 weeks).
• Warm towels in the box during labour and after the pups are born. Newspaper is suitable for lining the base.

• A drop in rectal temperature by about 1°C indicates whelping is likely to begin within 24 hours. It is a good idea to check the bitches’ temperature every 8-12 hours (2-3 times a day) and keep a graph. The normal dog’s temperature is about 38-39.0 °C
• A daily blood test by a veterinarian to find a drop in progesterone.
• The mother will often show nesting behaviour 12-24 hours before labour commences (she
  may build a “nest” in which to have pups) She may be more restless, off her food and hide away
• Mammary development and milk production – her mammary glands (teats) will swell 1-2 weeks before she gives birth, and milk is produced 24 hours before birth (note: mammary swelling and milk production may also be seen in a pseudo pregnancy or “false” pregnancy, as will nesting behaviour)
• Production of some mucous from the vulva/vagina 1-2 weeks before birth, this should not be dark green in colour or of a large amount.

STAGE 1
(This stage often goes unnoticed and takes place in the 24 hours following a temperature drop)

Stage 1 of labour usually lasts 6 to 12 hours, but can be up to 36 hours.

• You may find your bitch is restless and not able to get comfortable. She may stretch out on her side.
• You may find her eyes different; they can dilate, and she can stare at you.
• She may not want you out of her sight, she may hide, or she may go to her whelping box, or another site she has chosen.
• She may vomit.
• She may try to have a bowel movement from the pressure.
• She may urinate frequently.
• She may refuse to eat
• She may have some mucus discharge, and her vulva area will become puffier.
• She may start panting

STAGE 2
Stage 2 is the actual labour, usually lasting 6 to 12 hours. It can last up to 24 hours. It is
characterised by abdominal straining (contractions).

• She may start shivering, trembling, and panting, examining her rear, and licking her vulva.
• She may have vomiting, pass faeces and urinate more.
• She will have noticeable abdominal contractions.
• The frequency of contractions increases when a pup is in the birth canal; the “water breaks”, and the pup is born in a membranous coating.
• The mother licks off these membranes, which stimulates the pup to breathe. The mother will usually eat the afterbirth.
• Try to keep a time log of the length of time between contractions starting till the pup is being delivered and the arrival time of each pup.
• Pups are usually delivered at 15-60 minute intervals, until all are out, but this is VERY variable. On average, 60% of pups are born head first, 40% born back legs first (breech). Either way is normal.

PLEASE NOTE!
You do not have to help her at this stage unless she is ignoring the pups completely and they are not out of their membranes or breathing. If the mother dog is not attending to and licking the pups, then you may need to rub the pups with a warm, dry towel to stimulate their heartbeat and breathing.

She may be anxious and seem in pain as the first pup arrives. Try to be quiet and reassuring. If she is attending to her pups, don’t interrupt! Handle them as little as possible.

This stage can be interrupted if the mother is disturbed too much, so try to let her be, and check her every 30-60 minutes. Be quiet and keep spectators to a minimum.

Warning Signs – Please contact the clinic if you see:

• Green discharge before the arrival of pups. (Green discharge is only normal AFTER a pup is born)
•  Bleeding.
•  If you can see a pup in the vulva for over 5 minutes.
• Hard straining with no pup produced for over 15 minutes
• Long periods between pups with no contractions – time between pups can be very variable, but if you know she still has pups to come out, then contact your vet for advice if more than 2-3 hours have elapsed or she looks unhappy or has already had a dead pup.
• Muscle Twitching – low blood calcium levels can cause abnormal muscle and nervous movements.
•  Dead puppies.
• No Pups produced within 2 hours of the first contraction.

Stage 3 begins after the pup is delivered and ends when the placenta (afterbirth) is passed.

Afterbirth is passed 5-15 minutes after each pup. In litters larger than 1, usually 1-2 pups will be born, then she will pass 1-2 afterbirths. You may not always see every placenta.

Your new mother will usually eat the afterbirth (this is safe and normal), but it is not necessary for her to do so.

We advise a post-whelping check of mum and pups at 24 hours after whelping.

• Continue feeding puppy food to the mother throughout the time she is nursing the pups. It will be necessary to feed her 3-4 times daily, so she gets sufficient calories and nutrients.
• Ensure multiple water sources are provided.
• Give a broad-spectrum intestinal all-wormer 2 weeks after birth to the bitch at the same time as worming all the pups.

• Pups are kept in a warm environment (27-28 degrees).
• Clean out the whelping box area daily.
• Allow access to softened high-quality puppy food from 25 days old.
• Once eyes and ears are opened, and pups are walking around, water should be available from about 2 weeks.
• Do not feed them milk or any human food.
• Give a broad-spectrum intestinal all-wormer according to the puppy’s weight every 2 weeks from 2 to 8 weeks of age, then monthly until 6 months of age.
• Pups should receive their first vaccination between 6 and 8 weeks of age.

YOU WILL BE BUSY!!! IN TERMS OF TIME FOR THE FEW WEEKS THEY ARE WITH YOU, CARING FOR A LITTER OF PUPS IS LIKE HAVING RESPONSIBILTY FOR A HUMAN INFANT.

GOOD LUCK AND ENJOY THE EXPERIENCE!